From this they obtain good fuel economy ad final battery Also they described the development and the comparison of state of charge. Evtimov et al. They gave summary of the consideration of energy efficiency on an experimental recent work of electric vehicle.
They examined the major bicycle. Klein et al. Experiment was carried for three types of city routes. Different kind of model from simple ones to realistic models Without regeneration of energy the electric bicycle could go were presented. Self stabilizing models were considered for up to 35 km studies show that use of electric bicycle could this research. Experiences using bicycles in control reduce the pollution up to 10 time compared to conventional education.
Finally bicycles and clinical programs designed vehicles. Esther et al. Slater et al. He India, Germany etc. This survey resulted in an awareness compared both the traditional gasoline bike as well as the about the need of electric vehicle which lead to publication electric bike on the basic of their performance on electric bike.
Shao et al. The main goal behind conducting this acceleration, green as the benefits of using electric bike. Also experiment was to identify the best version of bike for they focus on the reducing the emission of two wheelers. Reddy et al. In his research he listed the properties of an electric powertrain designed for a hardware design guidelines for designing an electric bike motorcycle.
Design considerations of powertrain as well as and selection of main components of electric bike such as inverter and battery pack with BMS system choice was done. Primary objective of The results of road tests of the electric powertrain made on research was to design an e- bike as the no. The electric motorcycle was powered vehicles were increasing day by day which resulted designed and built in the Gdynia Maritime University.
Sakamoto [22], carried out Trevedi et al. They beat the issue of the pollution in view of all class motorcycle. The whole work was done by student itself. Every e-bike, retail or DIY, has those four parts. When it comes to a DIY e-bike, you usually buy a kit, especially if you are a beginner, because all four parts plus potentially some added accessories will come ready to install, plug and play, with nice waterproof connectors. For someone like me, I often buy the parts individually so I can customise things more, but it's really all the same in the end -- four parts have to get added to any conventional pedal bike.
It's pretty self explanatory. The battery powers the rig, and can placed in a bag at the rear of the bike. The controller, which controls the bike, can be attached with cable ties. The motor has a drive sprocket, which connects to a chain, which turns the back wheel.
That's it! Drive Sprocket The motorcycle uses a standard machine sprocket. I simply went to a farm store, which had a decent tractor repair aisle and located parts for the sprocket and chain. These are two parts, bought separately, which allows greatest flexibility in driveshaft diameter and sprocket tooth count. The sprocket and hub had to be welded together. In the earliest version of my cycle, that was the only welding done on the entire project.
It was only later, when I had some welding experience that I tackled the welded battery rack. On the original sprocket, I just had somebody else weld those two pieces together for me. These same parts could also be mail-ordered from a dealer such as Grainger or other industrial supplier.
The sprocket slides onto the end of the motor driveshaft, and is held in place by a keyway, square key, and set screws. Chain The chain is 40 chain from tractor aisle. It is a popular size chain, so there is a wide variety of sprockets that match. Driven Sprocket I did not use the stock sprocket on the back wheel of the motorcycle. Electric motors tend to work best spinning faster than gasoline engines, and geared down a bit more.
This gives you plenty of power, without constantly running high current through the motor. There are many on-line motorsports companies that will make custom rear sprockets. I used one called Sprocket Specialists. You simply tell them what motorcycle you have, what chain you want to use with it, and how many teeth you want on it. They custom make them on CNC equipment and send it to you in the mail.
I got an aluminum sprocket for a Kawasaki KZ for 40 chain and 72 teeth. It has a black protective finish. The larger aluminum sprocket weighs less than the stock steel one did. Saving weight is always a good thing for electric vehicles.
I removed the rear wheel, unbolted the stock sprocket, and replaced it with the custom one. Consult the cycle's repair manual to make sure to bolts are torqued correctly, and that the back wheel is re-installed right. Somebody asked about the sprocket being aluminum, and that this is a high-wear item. The black finish on this sprocket is a wear-resistant coating. The sprocket manufacturer highly recommend at least that for protecting the sprocket. I've been very happy with it, and wear on the sprocket has been minimal overall.
It would have given me a higher top speed, poorer acceleration, and cause the motor to draw more amps. Most of my riding is in the city, so I would gladly have a lower top speed in exchange for better acceleration and less amp draw.
By having the larger rear sprocket, I can always change out the inexpensive front sprocket to change gear ratios. If I kept the smaller stock rear sprocket, I wouldn't have had that flexibility. My current setup is a tooth front drive sprocket and a tooth rear driven sprocket for a 5.
On my cycle, I'm very happy with the combination of range, acceleration, and top speed. On a fresh charge, I have just enough power to do a minor burn-out. Acceleration away from a stop for city use is very nice.
There's no clutch to slip or engine to rev, so the cycle just GOES the moment you twist the throttle. Tweak the Driveline Once I had the sprockets on, I wrapped the chain, checked it for length, cut it to length, wrapped it on to both sprockets, and closed it up for a brand new master link.
Make sure the clip on the master link faces the right direction. It can work its way off if you put it on backwards. The original chain guard still fit over the new larger rear sprocket, but just barely.
I simply bent it a tad to make sure it had clearance. On the front end, the transmission would normally have an integral cover over the chain and drive sprocket. Without the tranny, it meant I had to make a custom chain cover. It could have been made from almost anything - metal, plastic, wood, but I wanted to show off how the cycle works, so I went with plexiglass.
I roughed out the shape required with some cardboard and a pencil, and then cut the plexiglass to fit the space. A straight piece of plexiglass covers the top of the chain. I used a scrap of an aluminum rail as a spacer between the motor mounting plate and the plexiglass to hold it in position. With everything in position. The chain needs to be tightened and aligned as per the user manual.
While I had the rear wheel off, I also used the opportunity to put on new tires. Bought on sale during a close-up sale! Wiring up the power system of the motorcycle is fairly straight-forward.
It just requires using thick power cables that are connected with nuts on the motor and batteries, and nuts and bolts on the motor controller. Cable Type You will want to use what's known as welding cable. Welding cable has many fine strands of copper cable inside. It's designed to carry high current, but it is also very flexible, making it easy to work with. Other types of copper cable are very stiff, may not have the right type of insulation, and aren't as easy to crimp to.
Welding cable is available at welding suppliers, good full-service hardware stores, and some building supply stores. Cable Thickness The thicker the cable, the more current a cable can pass through it without heating up.
Cable is commonly rated by American Wire Gauge. Typical household electric wiring for 15 amps might be 14 ga, but electric vehicle cabling might need to be able to handle hundreds of amps.
The motorcycle uses 4 gauge cable. It's thick enough to carry the required current, but still be affordable. Thick cable can get pricey fast. Lugs Get crimp-on power lugs that match the size of the cable you are using. They are available at the same place you got the welding cable from. Make sure that the bolt hole in the lug is the right size to match up with the power connectors on the motor, the controller, and the batteries.
If the various connectors are different sizes, get the appropriate number of lugs required so that you have enough lugs to fit all system components correctly. Crimpers You will need a mechanical crimper designed specifically for these heavy lugs. They usually come in two styles - "bolt-cutter", and hydraulic.
The ones that look like large bolt cutters long handles, small, jaw, almost always painted red for some reason They can be a bit pricey to purchase. They can sometimes be rented from full-service hardware stores. I borrowed one from a friend. Hydraulic crimpers are typically hand-held with a small cylinder like a mini bottle jack. You pump the handle repeatedly to make hydraulic fluid crush the lug onto the cable. They have interchangeble jaw inserts for various diameter cables.
The can be purchased fairly affordable at import tool stores like Harbor Freight. Making Cables To make power cables for the cycle, you need to know how long each cable is. Measure the distance between the two components using a flexible table measure or a piece of string it's almost NEVER a straight line between anything You might want to account for having cables follow the shape of the frame or all be on the same side.
In general keep cables as short as possible. Cut the cable to length. Thick power cable usually can't be cut with a small wire cutters. A bolt cutter will work fine, but the best tool I have used is a Sears Robo-Cutter. Any other type of large, sheering cutter will work fine. On the end of the cable, slide on a piece of shrink tube, large enough diameter to go around the lug, and about an inch or so long. Then, cut back the insulation of the cable so that the lug can fully slide on, without having any left over bare wire.
Crimp the lug on with the crimper of your choice. On "bolt-cutter" style crimpers, certain sizes require you to crimp twice. Slide the heat shrink tube forward to cover the crimped part of the lug and the beginning of the cable insulation.
Hit it with a heat gun or hair dryer set to hot so that it shrinks into place. Physically connecting the cables Connect all the cables, following the diagram provided in the motor controller manual. All four batteries in series - one to the next to the next to the next. Batteries to the controller. Controller to motor.
Without the main power turned on, the only concern electrically is that the batteries themselves always have power and that anything attached to them can carry current. Do not touch any power cables to the frame of the cycle, as that is the easiest accidental short-circuit. Wear safety glasses whenever working with batteries and power connections.
Once the cycle is cabled up, you only have to check things over and test it all out before you can go for a ride! Testing Before you go for your first ride, you must test the vehicle. Make sure all chain guards and any other safety features are in place. With the rear wheel OFF the ground, turn on the main battery disconnect and the key. Gently twist the throttle. The motor will start to spin, and along with it, the chain and back wheel.
If it doesn't, power down the cycle, disconnect the batteries, and follow the motor controller troubleshooting guide. It may be something as simple as a loose throttle connection.
Most controllers have a troubleshooting indicator light on them to help you. Having an assistant turn the throttle will more easily allow you to inspect the cycle with the motor running. Visually inspect the chain alignment and the front and rear sprockets. Everything else should also work on the cycle, the light, horn, turn signals, etc.
If there is anything else you need to do chain alignment, torque bolts, etc. Test Ride Make sure to take it easy on your very first ride. An electric motorcycle will behave a bit different than a typical gasoline cycle. Empty parking lots and lightly traveled roads are good for your first ride. As you ride, take note of anything unusual. The cycle should be very quiet and have almost no vibration, other than the bumps in the road.
On my first ride out, I noticed that I didn't like the way the throttle responded. It was too touchy. Any tiny twist of the throttle would instantly begin accelerating. When back from your test ride, check the cycle over again. Make sure nothing has loosened up, that the motor isn't hot, or anything else unusual.
At this point, you might want to adjust the controller so that the throttle better suits your riding style. You just built your own electric motorcycle! In the list of "odd things nobody ever tells you about Rear Brake Spring Bracket When I was getting the cycle all back together and testing to make sure everything was working right, I had to hook the rear brake back up.
On a motorcycle, the rear brake is activated by a right-foot pedal. A spring pulls that pedal back up when you release it. But here's the weird part I couldn't figure out where that spring connected to on the frame of the motorcycle.
By converting my motorcycle to electric, I no longer had a place to connect my return spring! So, I built a little tiny, custom bracket, just for the spring to go to. On your project, you might come across some other odd quirk like this. It's not a big deal, it just gives you the opportunity to be creative and come up with your own solution! The Gas Tank Some of the most common questions I get about an electric motorcycle are about the gas tank. Typical is "If it doesn't have any gasoline, why do you have the gas tank?
When I got the motorcycle, the tank was already rusted and dented. It was completely bone dry, but I still left it open for a few days before cutting off the bottom with an angle grinder, so I could beat out the dents from the inside. Then I stripped the existing paint, and gave it a new paint-job. The top part of the motorcycle frame is a tube that goes straight through the gas tank.
The tank is almost like a saddle-bag that hangs over that bar. The tank is also curved and batteries are nearly always big rectangular things. So, between the frame and shape of the tank, you just AREN'T going to cram batteries in there That would also raise the center of gravity on the cycle as well. The tank does make an excellent cover for over the batteries.
It would also be a good place to mount the motor controller or a battery charger, as long as you make sure they have enough ventilation. Some electric vehicle enthusiasts will even make a FAKE gas tank from foam, fiberglass, or plastic. It gives the cycle that cool look, but since it's custom, can be designed to accomodate batteries or other components. Remember, on some cycles today, the "gas tank" really isn't. On Goldwings, the "tank" is just a filler port, but the actual fuel tank is elsewhere on the vehicle.
The "tank" makes a nice box for gloves, goggles, and maps. Should the need arise for my cycle to be loud, I have a horn and am not afraid to use it. Even though most car drivers today have their windows rolled up, with the air-conditioning cranked, and the radio blaring, so they can't hear a thing anyways some people still think that a motorcycle being obnoxiously loud is a safety feature.
After the millionth time that I heard that "loud pipes save lives" mostly from NON-motorcyclists , I wondered if there was a way I could play with that in a way that an electric motorcycle could be BETTER than a gas one when it came to making noise. I connected an MP3 player to my computer and downloaded some various motorcycle sound effects.
I then attached self-powered computer speakers inside the hollowed gas tank and bungie-corded the MP3 player to the handlebars. I could now sound like a Harley, a Kawasaki, a 50cc scooter, or the George Jetson flying car!
See details on that here on Instructables. Motorcycle riding is a skill. It should be learned and practiced. Make sure to always "get the hang of it" again in the spring after pulling the cycle back out of winter storage. Come to think of it winterizing should be covered here as well.
Winter Storage When I looked through the cycle manual on winter storage, I was surprised at how much work it was to store a gas cycle for the winter! You have to change the oil, run the tank dry, and doing a surprisingly-long list of other things!
When back out of storage in the spring, you are supposed to change the oil again! On my electric motorcycle, here's how I put it away for the winter. LED Lighting A vehicle becomes more efficient the lighter and more aerodynamic it is. You can also help make it more efficient by reducing electrical loads. For example LED lights consume less power than incandescent ones. On my cycle, I replaced the stock taillight with an LED light from the autoparts store. They are mass-manufactured, DOT-approved, and affordable.
I'd like to have a low power-draw headlight, but at this time there are only a few DOT-approved LED headlights available on the market, and they are rather expensive. I'd like to get one when the price comes down, or possibly build my own. The turn signals on the cycle are still incandescent, as they use nearly no power at all how often are turn signals on!? It didn't make sense for me to spend the money to upgrade them to LED.
If I were building a new, custom motorcycle, I would install LED lights all the way around right from the start. Another really cool thing about electric motorcycles is how crazy efficient they can be!
After my first ride on a fully charged battery, I recharged the battery, tracking how much energy was used with a Kill-a-Watt energy monitor and divided it by how many miles I traveled using the trip odometer. I used electric-to-gasoline-conversion numbers from MIT to calculate what the equivalent "miles per gallon" would be.
It came out to over mpg! Is it fair to use MPG when talking about electric vehicles? No, not really. Gasoline can't be made from wind turbines or photovoltaic panels, and there aren't nearly as many gas stations as there are electric outlets. When talking about electric vehicles, we might use "MPGe" or miles per gallon equivalent.
It's not a perfect analog between gas and electric, but it gives people who have lived in a world of miles per gallon a better sense of the efficiency of an electric vehicle. Keep in mind that heat, noise, and vibration are all signs of POOR efficiency.
An electric motorcycle doesn't have a hot engine, with noisy exhaust that needs mufflers, and it doesn't shake from engine vibration. Regenerative Braking Many people are now familiar with the concept of regenerative braking, due to the mainstream popularity of hybrid cars. So, of course they ask if my cycle has it as a feature. No it doesn't. Although a DC permanent magnet motor can make a fine generator, adding regenerative braking adds to cost and complexity of the project.
On the cycle, the motor is connected to the back wheel, where it would be less effective for regen. Also, overbraking on the rear of a cycle can lead to a uncontrolled skid. Many "hypermilers" get better fuel economy by avoiding braking in the first place, using simple eco-driving techniques, such as "timing lights".
B udget We wouldn't want to finish talking about this project without mentioning what it cost to build. On my project, some of the parts, like the ammeter, power indicator light, and battery charger were items that I already had or were salvaged materials. Here's a basic run-down of the project budget. If a person already had some other parts, tried used batteries, or installed an inexpensive forklift motor, the price could come down.
See Russ' cycle photo in the last step! He built his for nearly nothing! Check out Tony's cycle in the last step! Cost of charging Electric motorcycles are efficient and have smaller battery packs than electric cars.
My cycle usually costs about a penny a mile to charge. That will vary a little bit depending on what electric rates in your area are.
Electric rates are much less volatile than gasoline prices. If you have solar, you can charge your cycle for "free"! In some areas, a "Time of Day" plan is available. You pay double the price of electricity during "peak load" times and you pay HALF the price during "off-peak" times, usually at night.
Check with your local power company. By recharging your vehicle only at night, you can cut your electric "fuel" costs in half!
They really are just about cleanest, most straight-forward transportation possible. Knowing what I know now, I could build an electric motorcycle in a three-day weekend. I know one guy who I mailed a photo of my motorcycle to. When I saw him the next week, he had already built an electric motorcycle almost exactly like mine! We now have a completed electric motorcycle. That's great for practical local transportation, but what about the 22 hours a day that the motorcycle is just parked there!?
Isn't an electric vehicle just a big battery pack with wheels? Wouldn't it be great to in some other way make use of that? A lot of very clever people think so. It's just theory right now, and requires a lot of standardization of components, fancy computer controls, and vehicle owners agreeing that everyone else can "borrow" their power. It's a really neat concept, but I don't think it will happen anytime soon. Could some of those same ideas be used on a personal level?
The Poorman's Smart-Grid One use that would be fantastic for an electric vehicle is for home blackout protection. Instead of purchasing a gasoline or diesel generator for use in a power-outage, just run your house off your electric motorcycle!
People often have their computer at work plugged into one. In a brief blackout, the UPS switches power over to an internal battery, allowing you to finish what you are doing and save your work.
When the power comes back on, the UPS switches seamlessly back to regular wall power and recharges the internal battery. Within 60 days from the date of order, for any unsatisfactory, people can get all their investment back without any hassle or question asked.
For any question about this product, feel free to contact the author right here contact [a t ] fastelectricbike dot com. Have you used this e-guide yet? Is it helpful for you? Leave your ideas below to share your experience with this product. If you want to contribute any comment about my How To Build A 50mph Electric Bike review or other entertainment information , drop your words at the comment section.
Displayed content is offered by businesses which have been compensated. There is a potential effect on how, what, and where products may appear. All effort is made into providing full transparency, not all available products or companies are highlighted. Published material is offered without any slant or bias no matter what affiliation there is with sponsorship or association.
0コメント